From recycled wide-leg denim to Afrofuturist designs crafted from secondhand curtains, the catwalk at Nairobi Fashion Week showcased a wave of new designers championing sustainable fashion in Africa.
This annual event, launched in 2013 to promote Africa’s then-nascent fashion industry, has evolved into a prominent platform for sustainability in recent years, driven by growing concerns about the environmental impact of textile waste on the continent.
The impact of national and global policies on Kenya’s textile industry took centre stage, where industry leaders, designers, and policymakers dissected the opportunities and challenges shaping the sector.
The event, held under the theme “Regenerative Fashion Renaissance: Restoring Culture and Nature,” underscored how trade agreements, environmental regulations, and local policies influence Kenya’s textile industry, from raw material sourcing to production and exports.
Global Fashion Trends: A Call for Sustainability
The global fashion landscape is increasingly defined by sustainability, technological innovation, and ethical practices. The European Union (EU), for example, has implemented stringent regulations to enhance the sustainability of the textile and fashion industry.
These measures encompass the entire textile lifecycle, from production to end-of-life disposal, on minimizing waste and incentivizing textile reuse and recycling through initiatives such as the Circular Economy Action Plan and the Sustainable Product Initiative.
These EU regulations are a global shift towards eco-friendly practices within the textile industry. To remain competitive and unlock its full potential, Kenya’s textile sector must adapt to these evolving global trends while strengthening its domestic regulatory framework.
“Kenya’s textile industry possesses immense potential to excel globally,” emphasized Professor Josphat Idagwa, Associate Professor of Textile Engineering at Moi University.
“However, achieving this requires a seamless integration of national policies with international expectations. A cohesive strategy encompassing sustainability certifications, technological advancements, and strategic trade agreements is crucial to empower local producers and ensure global competitiveness.”
Kenya’s Sustainability Journey: From Plastic Bans to Green Initiatives
Kenya has made strides in sustainability, with several national policies and initiatives aligning with the global shift towards eco-conscious fashion.
The 2017 ban on single-use plastics serves as a significant landmark. The National Environmental Policy of 2030 specifically addresses the management of chemicals within the manufacturing sector, including the fashion industry.
The Green Economy Strategic Plan (2016-2030) emphasizes aligning economic activities to minimize emissions and enhance energy efficiency.
Furthermore, the National Climate Change Action Plan (NCCAP) prioritizes climate change mitigation through adaptation and sustainable development strategies.
The Need for Policy Synergy
Sustainable fashion brands in Kenya are now exploring the integration of renewable energy sources into their supply chains and production processes.
The Sustainable Waste Management Act, which incorporates the principle of extended producer responsibility, mandates that businesses implement measures to ensure the recycling of waste generated from their products.
However, the prevalence of second-hand clothing (“mitumbas”) presents a significant challenge in effectively implementing this policy.
“The quality of secondhand clothing has significantly deteriorated, contributing to a significant textile waste issue,” observes Brian Kihindas, Creative Director of Nairobi Fashion Week.
“Establishing a producer responsibility organization, enabling businesses to collectively address waste management, could be a viable solution,” suggests Jeremy Kaburu, Circular Economy and Research Specialist.
“Alternatively, imposing a tax on imported clothing, with the revenue allocated to support informal waste pickers in recovering waste from both ‘mitumbas‘ and fashion industry offcuts, could be considered.”
While Kenya has made significant progress sustainably, experts emphasized the critical need for global policy synergy to accelerate the transition to a more sustainable fashion industry.
Policies such as Kenya’s plastic ban, support for sustainable agriculture, and promotion of local crafts are crucial steps. However, without a cohesive, global approach, progress can be limited.
Sustainable fashion leaders at the event stressed the importance of creating international trade policies that prioritize eco-conscious production and ensure that sustainability underpins global fashion systems.
Inter-country collaboration will be vital to ensure that sustainable practices are not only supported locally but also encouraged within global supply chains.
As the global fashion industry shifts towards regenerative and sustainable practices, Kenya’s textile industry stands at a critical juncture. Policies must effectively balance economic growth, environmental responsibility, and fair trade to ensure the sector’s sustained growth and competitiveness in the global market.
“National and global policies exert a profound influence on the textile industry, both within Kenya and internationally,” concluded Brian Kihindas, Creative Director of Nairobi Fashion Week.
“Locally, we’ve witnessed how trade regulations, import tariffs, and the support—or lack thereof—for sustainable practices shape the growth of our fashion sector.
On the global stage, policies such as the EU’s regulations on textile waste and sustainability are establishing new benchmarks that Kenyan designers and brands must adapt to.
The challenge and the opportunity lie in aligning our local industry with these evolving international standards while simultaneously ensuring that our policies foster innovation and support for sustainable practices in textile production.
Nairobi Fashion Week serves as a crucial platform for these discussions, as the policies we adopt must not only focus on business growth but also on environmental stewardship and social responsibility.
We believe that collaboration with both local and global policymakers can contribute to shaping an industry that is both economically viable and sustainable for future generations.”
Photo Credits: Daniel Kempf-Seifried
